Havana is a delusion in the whirlwind of the Transition: it is the only city in the world with gay bars run by the state and served by public officials, a place where until recently there were bookstoresclandestines, a Latin American capital that feeds on powdered milk and that challenges the lactophiles to spend a thousand and one peripecias in subuy of fresh milk , a space where santeria, with its African rituals and local ingredients, marks everyday life, a memetropolis where people travel "in the bottle", thus turning eachautomobile into a collective transport and a platform for unexpected encounters and unique adventures.