Autumn 1876: Friedrich Nietzsche travels to Sorrento, invited by his friend Malwida von Meysenbug. This journey is not only Nietzsche's first great trip abroad, his first great trip to the South, but the great turning point in his life and in his philosophy. It occurs at a time when Nietzsche suffers severe suffering: his health has weakened and unbearable migraines force him to stay in bed at least once a week. It is also the time to make an intellectual balance. Although he has turned 32 years old, Nietzsche begins to regret having accepted too young a professor's chair in Basel. But even more serious is the fervor of his commitment as a Wagnerian propagandist, who gradually gives way to disenchantment. This book illustrates this metamorphosis in an entertaining way and brings us closer to his figure from the most human angle: the letters of Nietzsche and his travel companions open us in first person the landscape of the philosopher's emotions, his conversations in that fruitful community of friends, your walks through those Mediterranean landscapes where life seems to take on a new meaning, the explorations with Paul Rée and the student Albert Brenner, together with those who recover the joyful sociability that fertilizes their creative impulse. They also bring us closer to the man besieged by illness and suffering. All this in the decisive year in which Nietzsche will travel to the maturity of his philosophy.